Moschino (source: Vogue)

Click the link above and watch this fashion show. Like the reviewer on vogue.com, I was dumbfounded when I discovered Madonna’s “Express Yourself” video is going to celebrate its thirtieth anniversary next year. Where does the time go?

Anyway, the menswear shows are underway in Italy. Yesterday, Moschino put on a coed show in Milan that gave a nod to Madonna and the influence she had on pop culture back in the day. But it wasn’t the Madonna references that made this show a standout. This was the most timely thing I’ve seen on a runway for a long time.

With almost all the planets crowded into Capricorn and Scorpio at the moment, it’s no surprise that a show underpinned with themes of bondage and restraint resonated with me. I’ve grown weary of the anything-goes spirit of fashion lately, so a little repression went a long way.

Moschino isn’t usually my thing, although I’ve been a champion of Jeremy Scott for years. Even when he does “young and cheap” for his signature line, I see the irony that defines his best work. Capricorn, according to me, is the “irony” sign in fashion. However, I discuss Moschino in the Sagittarius chapter of my book because the brand parodies the commercialization of fashion in a very heavy-handed manner.

This show was a little more subtle, even with all the deliberate S&M references. Underneath the styling, there were all the Capricorn and Scorpio signatures: well-tailored suiting; black-on-black looks defined by differences in texture; army-green outerwear; 1940’s influenced evening looks; literal restraints used as closures in a tongue-and-cheek fashion: signature prints that say “Moschino” without actually saying “Moschino.”

I’m sure that “subtle” will be the last word to come to mind for most of the people who watch this show, but I’m going to implore them to look beyond the runway styling at what Scott showed in this presentation. There was no better way to introduce the next couple of years of Saturn in Capricorn than this spectacle. If Moschino was a publicly-traded company, I’d put everything into it right now: these clothes are going to hang beautifully in stores and they are going to sell, sell, sell!

I know it’s only January, but I’m going to go out on a limb and say that this might be the best show any of us will witness this year.

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