Kate & Kristen for Perry Ellis (source: Vogue)

Saturn goes direct in Capricorn today at 25°20″. What’s interesting about that is that Saturn turned retrograde at exactly the same degree on May 5, 1990.

Now I’ve discussed the early nineties and the birth of the Grunge Era a million times on this blog. During that time, a stellium of planets in Capricorn initiated a genuine cultural shift where much of the fashion establishment collapsed under the weight of its own fondness for excess. While many astrologers focus on the symbolism of the goat ascending the mountain when they attempt to interpret the influence of planets transiting the sign of Capricorn, I have a somewhat different perspective. I also focus on how often Capricorns fall back down the mountain, hitting rock bottom and having to start all over again.

In “Star Struck Style,” I describe one of the myths associated with the sign as follows:

“Capricorn is symbolized by a sea-goat: a goat with a fish-like tail. In mythology there was a sea-goat named Pricus. Pricus had sea-goat children who liked to lounge on the seashore, only the longer they stayed there, the more goat-like they would become. Pricus could reverse time and force his children back into the sea, but eventually he chose to allow time to continue moving forward because the young sea-goats would inevitably return to the shore. It was in their nature to evolve: to become creatures that could eventually ascend to the highest mountaintops. This myth provides an excellent analogy for what most Capricorns experience in life. Despite the setbacks they encounter, Capricorns possess an insatiable desire to ascend.”

2020 has essentially called many of us “back into the sea.” In the fashion business, countless individuals have been forced to start over again as brands go bankrupt and store closures continue to savage the retail business. I can’t blame anyone in the industry for feeling as if their last several years of hard work were for naught.

Of course, that doesn’t have to be the case. Looking ahead, there’s an entire generation of kids whose reality has been shaped by this shitty year, and those kids are going to be the consumers of tomorrow.

Even “Vogue” is predicting this cultural shift (click the link above to read more). Yet so many of the fashion shows I’ve been watching on “Vogue Runway” this week are just the same old, same old. Nothing about the S/S 2021 presentations has excited me. Nothing has even made me roll my eyes into the back of my head like I did when Marc Jacobs showed his now-legendary “Grunge” collection for Perry Ellis back in 1992. I may have hated the clothes, but at least someone attempted to capitalize upon the cultural shift. I’ll give the guy credit for trying.

But perhaps my malaise with the current season just proves that fashion has hit rock bottom again almost thirty years later. Maybe the biz is ready to reinvent itself again now that Saturn is finally making its last stand in Capricorn, just as it did in 1990-91. I hope that we’ll see a few designers trying to shock us six months from now when the next season of shows takes to the catwalk. Even if I have to watch in horror as high-end brands attempt to sell thrift-store knockoffs to people with too much money like Marc Jacobs did, at least I’ll feel strongly about the collections one way or another. As for this season, though, it just isn’t doing anything for me.

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