Dries Van Noten F/W 2020 (source: Vogue)

It’s been a while since I discussed the future of fashion on this blog.

I haven’t been too excited about fashion lately because all these planets in Capricorn are making people believe that it’s more important to be seen in a recognizable brand than in a stylish outfit. Even the covert snobbery of a label like Bottega Veneta has given away to overt flaunting of house signatures. I saw a guy on the BV runway in Milan wearing what looked like an Intrecciato tunic/puffer jacket that told me that the brand’s creative director, Daniel Lee, is trying way too hard. The reason that I’ve always adored Bottega Veneta because it has traditionally been the antithesis of trying too hard.

Of course, there are exceptions to this current phenomenon. Riccardo Tisci’s Burberry show made Burberry plaid exciting again in ways that I didn’t think were possible. And some of those Prada-isms on Miuccia’s runway and the Galliano signatures at Maison Margiela seemed fresh in my tired, old eyes.

However, what really seemed fresh was this Dries Van Noten show. One of the words that is often used to describe Van Noten’s work is “Bohemian.” I actually discuss Boho looks in the Aquarius chapters of both of my books.

If this is where fashion is going once Saturn enters Aquarius, I can take it. It’s a little less self-consciously weird than Gucci’s look-at-me, magpie aesthetic, and yet it speaks of that “unconventional glamour” I always associate with the sign. The silhouette itself is recognizable as a retro throwback, but the garments themselves have no relation to the era they evoke. It’s a challenging outfit because it defies convention, but that’s what makes it so appealing.

I get Aquarius vibes from a lot of designers, but particularly Van Noten. I discuss him in “Star Struck Style” in the Aquarius section. I can honestly admit that it was the most challenging chapter for me to write because it was difficult to reconcile the rationality of Aquarius natives with the unconventional streak that makes signature Aquarius style so unique. And yet I see everything I wanted to say about the sign in the image I posted above. As the saying goes, “a picture tells a thousand words.”

Click on the link above to see the other sixty-five looks from the show. I could probably write 65,000 words to describe how much I liked the presentation, but I’ll spare you the trouble of having to read all of that.

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