In a bizarre turn of events, I blogged about Haider Ackermann yesterday. I woke up today to discover that he is no longer designing for Berluti. Oh well! At least they waited for the day after his birthday to announce the news.
I published “Star Struck Style” in October last year. In less than six months, there has been a ton of designer defections, firings, hirings, etc. I can barely keep up. Still, that’s the nature of the business, so I shouldn’t be surprised.
I’m not going to backtrack and change my prediction about Haider Ackermann, though. I still have a good feeling about what the designer will accomplish over the next couple of years. His chart looks good. Maybe it wasn’t good for Berluti, but it’s good nonetheless.
I hope Berluti keeps up the momentum. There has been a ton of movement amongst designers in the menswear business, and much of it has been positive. LVMH has been trying to make Berluti the name on everyone’s lips. They were getting there with Haider Ackermann, but I have no idea if that was translating into sales.
Interestingly, one of the other big stories of the last week involved Louis Vuitton itself, a label that I call an Aries label in “Star Struck Style.” There’s a lot going on Aries right now with a Mercury retrograde cycle, a full moon opposing the sun in Aries tomorrow, and Uranus making it’s last stand in the final degrees of the sign.
In another interesting bit of news, I read something yesterday about Vetements not being able to translate critical hype into retail sales. I call Vetements an Aries label, too, and Demna Gvasalia is an Aries designer. I did see this one coming, though, because Vetements barely seems to sell anything on sites like barneys.com. The amount of stuff left during markdown season is staggering, and it has been for a few seasons. What should be the name on everyone’s back is still just the name on everyone’s lips.
Anyway, this might not be the last we hear about fashion’s revolving door. With Saturn in Capricorn, there was bound to be some major restructuring. Slowly, but surely, labels are going to be rebuilding throughout 2018. By 2020, the landscape should be quite different. That’s a given.
But for the moment, expect the unexpected. Until Uranus changes signs in mid-May, these sort of surprises should continue to catch us off guard.
I know it caught me off guard. I couldn’t believe the news about Haider Ackermann.